Day 12: Ghetto, Accademia, Dinner out

We went to the Venetian Ghetto this morning. It was heart sickening to read (on the memorial plaques in the wall around the Ghetto Nuovo) that the Nazis took away the people who lived there in 1943 and August of 1944. Beastly. They were on their way to losing the war, but still they wasted resources on exterminating people who could do them no possible harm.


This afternoon we went to the Accademia. We skipped the organized tour because it was simply too rushed to appreciate any of the paintings ("There's an icon, there's a Tintoretto, please move on"). Instead, we worked our way through the first ten rooms on our own, Byzantine to Early Renaissance. That was enough - we were bleary-eyed. Click on the floor plan, then click on rooms 1, 2, .... to see the paintings in the exhibit.

Dinner on our own

We joined Frank and Giannina Mooney for dinner. We wanted to try a Trattoria in the Rialto neighborhood, called Madonna, that a guy we talked to at JFK had recommended, but it was closed. We asked a guy for a recommendation; he gave us directions to a tratorria and said to tell the owner that Omar had sent us. We got lost, so we took the vaporetto to the next stop and just walked hoping to find something promising. Then we tried the other side of the canal, a couple short "blocks" from the Rialto bridge. Had good pasta and terrific tiramisu. Unfortunately we didn't get any pictures, nor can we remember the name of the place. After dinner we ran into our guides, Laura and Katie (Mackay, Annie's replacement here) in the open-air dining area at the hotel. Had a pleasant time with them (they were feeling no pain).
Katie & Laura at Harry's