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Day 9 (Fri, May 11): Free Day in Siena

Today was scheduled as a free day, and a group of us decided to use it for a trip to Siena. Our group included Joyce and Dick Hall, Brooks and Lind McCaniel, Howard Meeks, Sue Degan and Joan Rearich. The dining staff opened up early for us so we could leave the hotel by 8:00.

While we were waiting on the graffiti-covered train platform, we were approached by the beautiful woman who warned us about gypsies and pickpockets in Florence (their begging is an annoyance, but it can be a coverup for outright theft). It turned out she is a professional tour guide named Carolina who lives is Montecatini and was on her way to Florence for a translating job. When we arrived in Florence, Carolina led us to where we could see our bus station and we said goodbye.

The map shows our route. The red line is a the train segment, the one we took earlier into Florence. The blue line is the bus trip, on the "Siena Rapida" (express) which was very comfortable. The ride to Siena was beautiful. Lovely hills, farms, a spectacular view of Monteriggioni, a walled town on a hilltop.

Siena deserved much more time than we could give it, but we did at least get a taste of the place (enough to make us want to go back).

the Sienese Contrade - These districts were set up in the Middle Ages in order to supply troops to the many military companies that were hired to defend Siena as it fought to defend its independence from Florence and other nearby city states. As time has gone by, however, the contrade have lost their administrative and military functions and have instead become simply areas of localised patriotism, held together by the emotions and sense of civic pride of the residents. Their roles have broadened so that every important event - baptisms, deaths, marriages, church holidays, victories at the Palio, even wine or food festivals - is celebrated only within one's own contrada. Every contrada has its own museum, fountain and baptismal font, motto, allied contrada (only Oca has no allies) and enemy contrada (only four - Bruco, Drago, Giraffa and Selva - have no declared enemies). - Wikipedia

Much of this is detailed here. There is much more here. Contrada loyalty even extends to dinnerware.

The 17 Contrade of Siena -- Flags and Shields of each Contrada



Aquila
Eagle


Bruco
Caterpillar


Chiocciola
Snail


Civetta
Owl


Drago
Dragon


Giraffa
Giraffe


Istrice
Porcupine


Leocorno
Unicorn


Lupa
She-Wolf



Nicchio
Shell


Oca
Goose


Onda
Wave


Pantera
Panther


Selva
Forest


Tartuca
Tortoise


Torre
Tower


Valdimontone
Ram

We found our way, as a group, to the magnificent Campo (town square, home of the famous Palio horse race - video ), then went our separate ways. Howard, Karen and I had lunch at Ristorante Il Campo, Il Campo, 50/51, 53100 Siena (SI) - indicated by the yellow marker on the map - one of a phalanx of caffés and restaurants surrounding and looking down on the Campo. Karen and I had pasta. Howard had a plate of mixed sausages which, he said, if they wouldn't kill him were pretty good. We learned that he is a retired Anglican bishop who recently lost his wife. Nice man.

Then we were joined by Joan and Sue and went to see the Duomo - indicated by the purple marker on the map - which involved walking up a very steep slope. Siena is hilly. We did find a more gradual path back down. The duomo is truly wonderful. We really enjoyed the use of black and white marble in the pillars, layered like the fancy licorice candy some of my Dutch students once gave me. Pisano's pulpit is held up by lions, each with something different in its mouth.

We made our way back to catch the 3:15 bus to Florence, where we reunited with Brooks and Linda and Joyce and Dick. Our trip went very well, and we were back in Montecatini around 5:30. We rested until dinner, which was a cold buffet (needless to say, very good).

We decided to have some wine in the courtyard, where we were joined by Sue, Joan and Richard Flower (from Carmel after a lifetime in San Francisco).

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